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Art and Culture
La Scala Opera House & Museum
La Scala is one of the world's greatest opera houses. However the theatre is currently (2003) closed for renovation, and at the centre of a typical Italian storm. Accusations are flying, resignations are called for, and considerable concern is being expressed for the fabric of the historic building. The work began in early 2002, and was scheduled to last three years. In the meantime, performances take place at an alternative venue, Teatro degli Arcimboldi.
La Scala Ticket Office is located in Piazza Duomo, with access from the stairs of the Metro (open afternoons only). Ticket sales at Teatro degli Arcimboldi begin 2 hours before a performance. However, you should book well in advance to guarantee a seat - the La Scala website (link below) has an online booking facility.
Teatro degli Arcimboldi is located in the Bicocca area, north of the city. A shuttle bus (navetta) service runs to and from Piazza Duomo for theatre goers (you'll need a standard ATM transport ticket). Buses begin around 70 minutes before the performance, and run every five minutes. Performances generally begin at 8pm.
Opera and Ballet at La Scala
 Highlights of the La Scala 2003-2004 season (at the Teatro degli Arcimboldi) include Nureyev's ballet Don Quixote (6th-15th November 2003), the opera Turandot (13th-25th January 2004), Bizet's Carmen (7th June - 22nd July 2004), Madam Butterfly (7th-21st July) and the ballets Manon (5th-12th February 2004) and Swan Lake (14th April - 9th May 2004).
La Scala Museum
The Museo Teatrale alla Scala is an interesting tourist attraction for theatre-lovers. The museum was founded nearly 100 years ago, and exhibits include costumes worn by Maria Callas, Carla Fracci and Rudolf Nureyev. Portraits and mementoes of opera and ballet stars of the past line the walls, as well as historic views and souvenirs of the opera house itself. One of the most curious and fascinating items on display is Verdi's desk. The composer died in a Milan hotel in 1901, and upon his demise, his desk was preserved for posterity. You can see it in the La Scala Museum, complete with hotel notepaper, playing cards, a French dictionary etc.
There is also a special exhibition of historic instruments (including Verdi's piano) and gramophones (including a fabulous 1920s attempt to camouflage a gramophone inside a table lamp).
The La Scala Museum is now located in Palazzo Busca, Corso Magenta 71, opposite Santa Maria Delle Grazie and Leonardo's Last Supper. You can get there via the Metro (Concilazione) or by tram. There is a machine for sales of tickets to La Scala performances. Entrance costs €5; the museum is also included on a joint ticket for the Last Supper and the Brera Gallery (€10).
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